The Berkeley Guides:
Berkeley Guide to Europe:
Greece:
Athens
Athens (Athínai in Greek), the political and intellectual center of ancient Greece, is the accidental (some say unfortunate) capital of modern Greece. Originally built to accommodate one million inhabitants, Athens now houses over four million (almost half of Greece's total population), making it crowded, polluted, and ugly. Still, if you can see beyond the smog, Athens's concentration of culture and history can keep you enchanted for days. The city was designated the capital of the Greek nation-state after the Turkish garrison surrendered to King Otto in 1833 during the Greek War of Independence. Western European powers were enamored with the idea of turning the ancient home of Socrates and Pericles into the seat of a modern democratic government; ignoring the fact that the city's population had diminished to less than 10,000 (and that it was bound to grow), they simply turned the village into a modern replica of the ancient city. Dutch designers reintroduced Greek architecture to the Greeks through the neoclassical University, Art Academy, National Library, and Royal Palace (now the Parliament Building). Modern Athens is now a confusing place, a vast sprawl of concrete apartment buildings, narrow streets, imposing governmental offices, and the occasional stunningly beautiful ruin. But the city's uncontrolled growth has turned it into a borderline unlivable place, prompting the government to expand the aged Metro system, create much-needed parks, and curb the freeway-style traffic.
Since the Roman conquest of the city in 46 bc, tourists have been flocking to Athens to revel in its riches, monuments, and art. Modern tourists, however, are in for a nasty disappointment if they're hoping to experience the glorious Athens of old. Many neighborhood shops close during July and August, as Athenians turn from their smog-filled city in favor of island beaches. The businesses that do stay open shut their doors during the afternoon when the unshaded streets become unbearable. The city springs back to life at night, though, when the cool breezes and darker sky serve as the perfect backdrop for glowing monuments and the lively music that floats from the tavernas to the street.
|
